2007 - Kiwi Wine Fan Club - Wines of the Year

The Year in Review

On reflection, 2007 has been an exhilarating wine year for Kiwi Wine Fan Club. Between us we have toured scores of cellar doors in almost every New Zealand wine region. The only major region we haven’t visited is Central Otago which we have on the cards for early next year. We have attended a number of trade shows, many formal and informal wine shop tastings, a few wine club events, and thrown together some attractive occasions ourselves.

I have found my acquisition of New Zealand wine ramping up at the expense of other countries. The quality and diversity of wine in New Zealand is continuing to expand. The 2007 vintage just looks incredible from what we have seen at these early stages. The flavour, purity, elegance and definition found in the new vintage white wine is astounding. Alcohol levels are moderate contributing to fresh and balanced palates. We can only hope that their red counterparts follow in these footsteps as they hit the retail shelves. Next years 2007 releases have the potential to be just as convincing.

Competition for the consumer’s attention is becoming fierce as dozens of new wineries pop up like mushrooms. We just can’t keep up with them as brands both appear and disappear. Increasingly consumers have to make choices. Some segments of the market are seeing plenty of cut price deals which is making Friday night informal drinks a bit cheaper, or at least of a higher quality. On the other hand, at the super premium end of the market, the wallet is being squeezed as the price for icon New Zealand wine increases. More and more people recognize the quality we have on our own doorstep.

So how did the landscape of kiwi fine wine pan out over the last twelve months? A number of the established classic and icon producers genuinely stepped up their games releasing wines that can only strengthen their reputation and following. At the same time unheard of labels pushed themselves boldly to the front of shot, also demanding our attention. They have stepped straight into the ring uninvited to go toe to toe with the big boys. It will be fascinating to see if they have the stamina to keep themselves there.

Wine of the Year - The Rules of Engagement

The rules of engagement this year are simple. Each wine considered must originate from New Zealand, and should have been released pretty much within the last year. This year we are not taking any notice of price, although we have attached approximate retails. Readers can then make their own value for money judgments. Opinions of the websites contributing writers have been sought and thrown into the mix enabling us to lock down a solid and popular collection of top performers.

My picks this year are in the end a general reflection of my own palate. You can see where my preferences lie. I find increasingly that elegance and refinement win over richness and power. Subtleness wins over the obvious and the guarded takes first place ahead of flamboyance. This is the formula I appreciate. Not everyone sees things this way. Everyone’s tastes evolve and change over the years, and no one person’s palate is more correct for them than their own. It is essential though that each drinker has an opinion and does not blindly follow the ramblings of others.

I hope every visitor reading this annual review is encouraged to experiment with one of the finalists that ‘sounds like a bit of them’. As per usual this list is made up from a subset of New Zealand wines; the wines we physically tasted over the last twelve months. It is a considerable subset, but a fraction nevertheless. We have no doubt missed a handful of examples that if tasted could have made the cut. That is just the way things are at an enthusiast’s website. We all have day jobs and other interests to entertain.

2007 Kiwi Wine Fan Club Finalists for Wine of the Year

The finalists are:

Sauvignon Blanc

Numerous fantastic wines have missed the cut this year that in pretty much any other year would have waltzed in. Mark especially has commented on the fantastic all round Sauvignon Blanc quality he experienced at Wine NZ this year. I can only but agree. This really looks to be the best Sauvignon Blanc vintage since the legendary 1996. The wines are lively, classical, balanced and fresh. One caveat though, Sauvignon Blanc changes so quickly in the bottle almost on a weekly basis it seems. As a result it is insanely difficult to create any definitive ranking that will last the ages. Some examples of the variety fade quickly, some blossom with a few months rest. Most of them though are best drunk over their first summer as freshness and vibrancy is their primary lure.

2007 St Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). It is so, so hard to pick out a Sauvignon Blanc this year as many producers have excelled. Although the Wairau Reserve isn’t as exuberant as most of St Clair’s Pioneer Blocks or in fact a number of other efforts form other producers, St Clair Wairau Reserve exhibits a texture and a restraint that stands out in a crowd. This is a wine to have in a formal setting with some great seafood and to mull over. Surely this is now New Zealand’s greatest Sauvignon Blanc label. Its subtle class and deft balance wins the day for me. ($33 Retail. Available in most fine wine stores)

2007 Amisfield Sauvignon Blanc (Central Otago). To balance out the cliché picks, we should also highlight something a little left field. This wine is a brilliant Otago Sauvignon Blanc, closer in style to Sancerre than most Marlborough examples are. It is not the first Sauvignon Blanc of this quality to trickle from this region either. Minerally and multi layered, it shows immense style and sophistication. It displays clear varietal definition with finely boned gooseberry overlaid by slate, river pebble and dried herbal notes. It would be an awesome match for seafood. It is extremely sexy Sauvignon Blanc. ($30 retail, a bit thin on the ground)

Also honourable mentions to a number of close on perfect Sauvignon Blanc expressions. A couple of them are under $20 a bottle too! 2007 St Clair “Pioneer Block Block 2 Swamp” Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 St Clair “Pioneer Block 6 Oh!” Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 Drylands Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 Brackenbrook Sauvignon Blanc, and 2007 Mt Riely “Block 3” Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 Astrolabe "Awatere" Sauvignon Blanc.

Chardonnay

We tasted some breathtaking wines honed with finesse and texture this year. I love the mouthwatering and refined grapefruit/marmalade characters found in many of our top picks. In spite of this, there are still a few so called front rank wines that are over oaked, clumsy and a little obscene. But in general crafting chardonnay is carried out with a lot of pride. Chardonnay is on the rebound after being unfashionable for a while now. Seasons change. Ross has commented to me a couple of times lately just how much he is enjoying rediscovering this variety. I must concur. It has to be said that even among a number of excellent wines this is the year of Kumeu River. With five outstanding Chardonnay’s released this year it would be quite remiss not to recognise them.

2006 Kumeu River “Mates Vineyard” Chardonnay (Kumeu). This wine as I see it is head and shoulders above any other chardonnay to flow from our nation this year. The focus, the detail, the balance and precision within this wine is like the presentation and workings of a fine Swiss watch. It is gloriously elegant, pure and stylish. The intricacy of flavour and subtle complexities sets it apart from its peers. This could well be the greatest chardonnay this illustrious estate has ever produced. It certainly is a massive step up from the slightly disappointing 2005 version. ($48 Retail. Reasonably widely available but for how long??)

2005 Foxes Island Chardonnay (Marlborough). A more traditional New Zealand Chardonnay than the Kumeu River examples. The balance between structure, flavour and texture in this wine is amazing. It demonstrates layers of flavour, is seamless and compelling. Oodles of fruit counter some smart oak handling. This is really benchmark Marlborough Chardonnay. Foxes Island certainly illustrates that although Marlborough may be overlooked a little by the wine elitist, it still pumps out some beauties with plenty of character and individuality. ($25 Cellar Door, $38 Retail. This is surprisingly difficult to find. Cellar door is the obvious choice)

Also mentions to 2005 Vidal “Reserve” Chardonnay, 2005 Villa Maria “Single Vineyard Taylors Pass” Chardonnay, 2005 Kawarau “Reserve” Chardonnay, 2006 Clearview “Reserve Chardonnay”, 2005 Church Road “Reserve” Chardonnay, 2006 Sacred Hill "Riflemans" Chardonnay, 2006 Kumeu River “Coddington” Chardonnay, 2006 Kumeu River “Hunting Hill” Chardonnay, and 2006 Kumeu River “Estate” Chardonnay.

Riesling

Against the uninformed opinion of the ‘stuck in the mud’ types, Off Dry Riesling is a broadening strength in New Zealand wine. Waipara is now the leading and rapidly growing light for the variety. I can only predict the continuing expansion of this style of wine driven by its exciting white peach flavours and silky texture. The team loves top Riesling especially in this Off Dry style. Many of our cellars are chock-a-block with it as often it ages gracefully medium term. It is a love affair that we cannot see abating.

2006 Craggy Range “Glasnevin Gravels” Riesling (Waipara). This is certainly a head turner of a wine, although I am not sure how available it is late in the year. With super refined mouth watering flavours it really announces itself as a special drink. It also is well priced and has very wide appeal. One of a number of gorgeous off dry Rieslings flowing from Waipara which must definitely now be considered our premier Riesling producing region. It is extremely compelling and graceful Riesling. ($22. This must unfortunately now be exceedingly rare.)

2006 Pegasus Bay “Aria” Late Harvest Riesling (Waipara). This could double as a dessert wine nomination. When you think that Aria is pushed out in 750ml bottles, and then do a few calculations you will realize it is astonishingly good value for money. The 2006 version is a big step up on the 2004 vintage. It is pure and focused but still exhibits the zany edge that Pegasus Bay Rieslings are famous for. I am inclined to drink much of this wine young as its freshness is a big part of its appeal. It is a statement which should make an impact on anyone with a glass of it. Serve it chilled with confidence to anyone and watch the current topic of conversation stall. ($38. Becoming increasingly rare. Try out of the way fine wine stores which have not yet been plundered)

Also mentions to 2006 Pegasus Bay Riesling, 2006 Peregrene “Charcoal Creek” Riesling, 2006 Villa Maria “Reserve” Riesling, 2005 Martinborough Vineyard “Manu” Riesling, 2006 Fromm La Strada Spatlese Riesling and the exotic 2005 Pyramid Valley “Growers Collection Lebecca” Riesling

Gewürztraminer

No wine seems to be quite as distinctive, exotic and difficult to spell as Gewürztraminer. 2007 looks the goods to spit out some stunners, although it is a 2006 vintage wine that takes out top spot. Dry River has for years lived at the top of the Gewurztraminer heap without much debate. We did not try the latest 2005 Dry River this year, though it is fair to say that the pack has closed the gap. There certainly are exciting examples that leave the bank account a lot less ravaged. Watch this space for the 2007 wines!

2006 Villa Maria Reserve “Marlborough Ihumatao” Gerwurztraminer (Marlborough + Auckland). In the past Villa Maria Gewurztraminers haven’t impressed me as much as they have the show judges. They just to me seemed to lack some ‘x factor’. This one however is a ripper. It is a wine riddled in intense turkish delight, crystal ginger, with ginger bread, spicy musk and cloves on the finish. It exhibits a heavenly texture and length of flavour all housed within a gentle structure. It is highly perfumed, exquisitely poised and opulent ($28. Try the Cellar door or large fine wine stores)

Also mentions to: 2007 Lawsons Dry Hills Gewurztraminer and 2007 Te Whare Ra Gewurztraminer.

Pinot Gris

Although I haven’t really got a wine that sticks out above all else for this category, it can be said that 2007 has to be the greatest ever vintage for New Zealand Pinot Gris. Special mentions go to 2007 Johanneshof Medium Pinot Gris, 2007 Omihi Hills Pinot Gris and madcap 2007 Mt Riely Pinot Gris. No doubt next year this variety will feature among our finalists. It could be the year that a popularist variety becomes accepted by the wine elite.

Sweet Wines

We don’t know how lucky we are in New Zealand to have these incredibly labour intensive wines turned out with such exceptional quality at generally reasonable prices. These wines are so special. I cannot think of a better Christmas gift than a rare top ranked bottle of this one of New Zealand’s most compelling wine styles. They are just so good for the festive season.

2005 John Forrest Collection Noble Riesling (Marlborough). This is mind-blowingly good Sauterne styled Riesling. The texture, mouth feel and aura of perfection within this wine make it a top candidate for topping a desert island wish list. It intoxicates with its subtle flavours and perfect silky texture. It is very limited, pricey but a very, very special Christmas gift idea for anyone with alive taste buds. It really is unbelievably seductive, very seamless and complete. It dances in the mouth with an amazing array of carefully choreographed flavours. ($45. Quite rare, available at some independent wine stores.)

Also a special mention to the very impressive 2005 Villa Maria “Reserve” Noble Riesling

Sparkling Wines

Kate has mentioned a couple of times how bored she is with kiwi Sparkling Wines. It is good to see some real differentiation in style edging into New Zealand fizz. Once upon a time they were very much tarred with one brush. The below wines present a strong challenge to top NV Champagnes all at a step down the pricing ladder. Once more, this style of wine is basically compulsory for the Christmas table.

Morton Estate “IQ7” Methode Traditionalle (Marlborough). This could well be the most Champagne like kiwi fizz I have ever tried. A new label from one of the North Islands most respected sparkling producers, it is taut and structured with a powerful bready, yeasty influence. Great concentration and determination through the palate makes for an experience different to really any New Zealand fizz. Is this New Zealand’s Krug?? Maybe not, but the price tag sure makes you feel a bit happier!! ($33. Yet to see this appear in retail. Available Mail Order)

Also a mention must go to 1998 Daniel Le Brun Blanc de Blancs

Pinot Noir

Otago is establishing itself as New Zealand’s latest premier Pinot Noir region and making plenty of noise. Nonetheless, Martinborough still produces a touch of extra richness that maintains the region as a benchmark. We sampled so many fine Pinot Noirs this year – many of them side by side with numerous other labels. It was tricky to accurately pick out the best as in many cases nothing stood head and shoulders above the pack as we plowed through sampling in often less than ideal formats. I have missed handfuls of top wines in the list below. However the wines chosen were never considered as being out of the inner circle and in most cases have been tasted several times with consistent results.

2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough). This year’s edition seems to walk the tightrope between sweet and savoury, between richness and varietal definition with ease. It is described as a benchmark wine and that is exactly what it is. There is nothing flashy or showy about this wine. It is the detail, the balance and poise that sets this apart from pretenders. Controlled and restrained. An icon label just trucking along nicely. Super juice! Exacting again! This is a compulsory buy for anyone serious about New Zealand Pinot Noir. Welcome to the “Coleraine” of Pinot Noir! ($69. Fairly widely available)

2005 Carrick Pinot Noir (Central Otago). We have had many opportunities to try this wine in different situations this year. Whether in a blind comparative tasting or with dinner we have all been impressed with the vinosity, texture and promise held within its frame. It isn’t as black fruited or rich as some of our other picks but it is in essence a very “pinot” Pinot Noir. It isn’t just a dry red, it wears the team jersey. The palate has a structure of ripe tannin which should hold it in good stead in the cellar. Definitely this wine vies with the 2003 vintage as the classiest Carrick Pinot ever. A svelte and sleek Pinot Noir. ($45. Popular but still available at good fine wine stores)

Also mentions go to other top examples; 2006 Gibbston Valley “Reserve” Pinot Noir, 2005 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2005 Amisfield Pinot Noir, 2006 Omihi Hills "Crater Rim" Pinot Noir, 2005 Villa Maria “Single Vineyard Taylors Pass” Pinot Noir and 2006 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir.

Bordeaux Styled Varietals and Blended Red Wines

This is a sizeable class inclusive of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and the other minor Bordeaux varietals of Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It also covers the myriad of blends of the above as well as the odd intruder. New Zealand still struggles to ease every facet of this wine style into shape on a regular basis. In parallel to this, popular fashion has set up camp elsewhere. Cabernet and Merlot are not in vogue at the moment. Nevertheless, the below wines are all some of the most exciting of their genre ever produced in New Zealand. The shallow among us that refer to Miles from ‘Sideways’ for wine fashion advice do, no doubt, also follow his dress sense. The rest of us will revel in these intriguing wines!

2005 Puriri Hills “Pope” Merlot Carmenere Cabernet Franc (Clevedon). I don’t know if we can add anything further to the lather of praise we have already bestowed upon this winery this year. It is hard to remember a time when I personally have been more excited about a wine that frankly before this year held nothing but a secretive reputation among a small circle of wine professionals. This circle didn’t extend to the likes of us. Perhaps even further to underline the “right under our nose” syndrome, it is the second closest winery to my front door; barely 20 minutes drive away! “Pope” is sensationally stylish and aristocratic. It is layered, subtle, intellectual yet seductive. This is a rare special occasion St Emilion style red, which overnight stands as a NZ benchmark. ($120. Try the Cellar Door. Not widely available). Update: 2005 Puriri Hills Pope was awarded our Champion Wine of the Year 2007.  Click here for an in depth write up.

2005 Puriri Hills “Reserve” Merlot Carmenere Cabernet Franc (Clevedon). The little sibling of Pope stands shoulder to shoulder with the best claret styled wines in New Zealand. It was simply a revelation. Those who don’t buy should live to regret the decision. Coax this wine out of its shell and you will find a sensationally elegant, fragrant and layered wine of abundant class. Buy it while you can, I can see this wine becoming a cult item which doesn’t happen often in New Zealand. Auckland can be very proud to have such a stunning wine grown and crafted on its fringes. One of the most supremely elegant “Right Bank” styled wines ever produced in this country. It is both graceful and charming. ($65. Try the Cellar Door. Not widely available)

2005 Te Mata “Coleraine” Cabernets Merlot (Hawkes Bay). Although Te Mata have been fairly muted and not promoted the fact, to the point the varietal description has been demoted off the front label; 2005 Coleraine is a Merlot Predominant wine. It increasingly appears to a proprietary blend. Semantics behind us, it certainly is one of the most elegant and compelling Coleraine’s to date. This is supremely stylish Hawkes Bay Claret styled red wine. Any serious drinker of Hawkes Bay red has this in their cellar already. This is the essence of fine wine; balance, sophistication and an understated style. Couple that with a history and reputation and brand second to none and we are all onto a winner. Open it in the company of those who appreciate it. It is a completely proven label and a genuine icon. Why would anyone apart from the most flakey wine fan not consider this? ($70. Still reasonably widely available retail. Sold out at the winery)

Also not forgetting to mention 2005 Craggy Range “Sophia”, 2004 Villa Maria “Reserve” Merlot, 2004 Esk Valley “Terraces”, 2005 Unison “Selection”, 2004 Church Road “Reserve” Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Church Rd “Reserve” Cabernet Merlot, 2004 Puriri Hills “Reserve” Merlot Carmenere Cabernet Franc, and the almost forgotten but classic 2004 Brookfields “Gold Label Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot.

Syrah

New Zealand Syrah is loaded with promise that no doubt will grow as an offering over the coming years. Many top Syrah also show huge potential to cellar long term. In fact I think overall they could rest safely a lot longer than our Bordeaux blended wines. It will be interesting to see how bottles released over the last five years will develop over the coming decade. Generally speaking, New Zealand Syrah from 2005 seems to show more elegance and approachability. The 2004’s are bolder; more highly extracted and need some time in the cellar.

2004 Vidal “Reserve” Syrah (Hawkes Bay). Although this wine got absolutely hammered at our mid winter red blind tasting by an outstanding showing from our last years pick (2005 Passage Rock Reserve Syrah), it is still hard to think of any Syrah released this year (that we have tasted at least) that has shown the consistency, breed and class of the Vidal Reserve. It has shown extremely well in every other forum we have tested it in. It has definite cellar potential and a finely boned frame that seems to set it apart form some of its more opulent competition. It no doubt points towards the future direction of evolution sought out by Hawkes Bay winemakers. This is one for the cellar. ($55. Still available reasonably widely)

Also mentions to 2005 Unison Syrah, 2005 Craggy Range “Block 14” Syrah, 2005 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, 2005 CJ Pask “Declaration” Syrah, 2005 Mills Reef "Elspeth" Syrah, and the follow up to last years winner; 2006 Passage Rock “Reserve” Syrah.

2007 Kiwi Wine Fan Club Champion Wine of the Year

All finalists were considered for our 8th annual accolade, to take the baton from the mouth watering 2006 winner; 2005 Fromm La Strada Spatlese Riesling (which as an aside is drinking magically at the moment, just ask Ross!!)

Our Previous Years Winners are:

2000 = 1998 Te Mata "Awatea" Cabernet Merlot (Hawkes Bay)
2001 = 1999 Stonyridge "Larose" Cabernet Merlot (Waiheke Island)
2002 = 2000 Te Mata "Coleraine" Cabernet Merlot (Hawkes Bay)
2003 = 2001 Neudorf "Moutere" Chardonnay (Nelson)
2004 = 2002 Unison "Selection" (Hawkes Bay)
2005 = 2004 Kumeu River "Mates Vineyard" Chardonnay (Auckland)
2006 = 2005 Fromm La Strada "Spatlese" Riesling (Marlborough)

and now to add to the board:

2007 = 2005 Puriri Hills "Pope" Merlot Carmenere (Clevedon)