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1999 Dry River Pinot Noir. |
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Written by Craig Thomson
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Dry River Pinot Noir is reasonably rare wine. Although it is a cult wine it is still available for those who search. Usually I reach for Ata Rangi now days to take the role of top class cellaring Pinot Noir. The main reason, even aside from availability and price, is that Dry River Pinot Noir is to me a wine that has never really settled on a style. The bold 1996 was followed by a shy 1997, an over cooked 1998 and this bold but classical 1999 version. How anyone blind could even have an inkling that these four wines was from the same producer is beyond me. The just seem to be devoid of a house style. However the 1999 was too much to resist and we bought one to cellar at a good price. Nine years on from vintage an occasion managed to fit this legend and the wine was opened. Lets not forget this wine is a benchmark.
1999 Dry River Pinot Noir. The colour is still deep opaque ruby with no real noticeable aging (note the picture - not exactly what you expect from 9yo NZ Pinot!!). The nose is intense with deep and obvious Chelsea bun like spice, raspberry jam, and red plum Background notes include notes of more exotic Indian spice and soft raspberry liquorice. The palate displays a core of ripe red plum like acid. The texture is luxurious and velvety sitting above the background structure, all enveloping subtlety complex but at the same time bold. A bold and intense drink edged with a beautiful softness. It is one of those wines where every facet is just a shade better than the norm, the result of which leads to a wine of great stature. This is one of my favourite Dry River Pinot Noir vintages. Under good storage conditions I see no rush to drink this wine yet. Thanks to perfect storage this wine is still very youthful and seems as though another 5 years would not harm. Shame I will not get to test my theory as this was my only bottle. $100. 97+/109
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