| Villa Maria Group Trade Tasting |
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| Written by Craig Thomson | |
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Villa Maria Group Trade Tasting This tasting we stumbled on by accident as we went to pick up some Riesling from the Villa Maria Cellar Door. A trade tasting was in progress so we went and asked if we could join in and they were all too happy, so thanks to Villa Maria. We were a bit rushed and disorganised so please view these notes as quick impressions only. It was great however to fill some holes. As we were pressed for time we concentrated almost entirely on flagship wines. How would you expect anything else from us?
2008 Villa Maria Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc. This is all capsicum, herbs and dried grass on the nose. The palate is packed full of green chilli and straw. A ripe herbaceous style of wine. I found the profile of this wine a lot different to the official tasting notes. I guess that reflects how quickly these wines tend to change in the bottle. 93/109 2008 Villa Maria Reserve Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc. As per usual this bottling seems a little more taut, tight and steely than the Clifford Bay example. The nose is a little more subdued with red currants and definite gooseberry hints. The palate is predominantly gooseberries with hints of snow pea and a minerally finish 94/109 2008 Villa Maria Reserve Maxwell Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Closest in style to the Wairau Reserve this wine displays flavours of banana fruit and gooseberry. Clean, weighty and bright 94/109 2008 Villa Maria SV Fletcher Vineyard Riesling. A delightful wine. Delicate, clean, crisply lined wine. Luscious citrus, orange sherbet nose. The palate introduces apple and white peach to the mix with hints of tangelo. Mouth watering and finely boned with gentle ripe acids and a long finish. The perfect summer lunch wine. Scrummy 98/109 2008 Villa Maria SV Ihumatao Vineyard Gewurztraminer. I struggled with this wine today. Mose is very varietal with Turkish delight and canned lychee. The palate is all rose water, rose Turkish delight with a real cinnamon twist as suggested in the official notes. It is very opulent in an unbridled way, and hedonistically rich. Not sure how many would cope with more than a glass of this ultra perfumed wine. 92/109 2006 Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling. Nose of canned peaches and dried mango/ pineapple. This vintage is very much a textural wine with a silky restrained texture. It is very creamy rich with an elegant frame. Hints of caramel already on the finish. I think this will be more a short term proposition, one to drink early. I think I prefer the 04 and 05. 95/109 2007 Villa Maria Taylors Pass Pinot Noir. The Villa Maria Pinot Noirs are prolific show award winners. I don’t know what it is with me but I have never got overly excited by them. They are very fruit obvious and forward, very opulent and soft. I tried four black label Pinot Noirs from Villa Maria and this one is my pick of the crowd. A little more savoury than the others with fine dusty tannins give some resemblance of structure. It is laid back and idling with very expressive fruit. Lovely foot off the gas elegance 96/109 2006 Villa Maria SV Omahu Gravels Merlot. This top of the tree offering is still very young and primary so it’s difficult to be too definitive. At this stage it is a bit one dimensional but still shows very pure black fruits; Doris plums and fresh blackberry. The palate is clean and texture quite creamy. Needs time but attractive and holding its own after tasting the reserve Syrah. 94+/109 2006 Villa Maria Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Another very very young wine that is showing masses of primary fruit. Dark blackberry and cassis dominate the rather one dimensional youth displayed at this stage. It is fresh with bright acids and a plump creamy texture. Hold, wait. Hardly a wine to make judgement on yet. 93+/109
2007 Vidals Reserve Chardonnay. A shy wine demonstrating flavours of lemon and white peach. The oak is well in the background but at this stage this wine is very closed and hand to get a read on. Seems to finish a bit short. 92/109 2005 Vidals Reserve Syrah. A new label makes this wine hard to recognise! We note a bit more structure in this wine than the Esk Reserve. It isn’t quite as opulent and not as deeply flavoured but its grainy tannins give it definition and structure. I think I prefer the 2004 version. 95/109 2007 Esk Valley Reserve Chardonnay. This is a finely boned and attractive wine. Flavours of white peach, a nuttiness and stone fruit stone can be found. The finish is more minerally and fresh marmalade in character. It was just a quick tasting but I was impressed by this. 95/109
2006 Esk Valley Reserve Syrah. This is another of those hedonistically rich wines that doesn’t necessarily show its best on a hot afternoon as it isn’t exactly summer fare. However that all aside this is still an impressive wine. Unashamedly rich and textured with layers of slippery, velvety black fruit and chocolate. There isn’t really any peppery influence in this wine instead it is all about the texture and mouth feel. Full bodied, silky and warm. Which of the Villa stable Syrah’s do I like the best? Although I’ve tried them side by side on a number of occasions I’m not sure I can decide. However if pushed, and taking Mel’s opinion into account this would probably be the wine 97/109
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2006 Villa Maria Reserve Syrah. This multi awarded wine certainly has something to it. Quite different to the equivalenmt wines from Esk Valley and Vidals. The aromatics are definitely a point of difference with dark black fruits, a savouriness with pepper and floral elements intermingled. The palate is the ‘big softie’, with relaxed and expressive black fruits. The soft dusty tannins linger forever. It isn’t a summer day wine, and this suffered from being served on a very warm afternoon but quality is evident for all to see. 97/109
2006 Esk Valley Reserve Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon. This Hawkes Bay institution is a must taste on our annual calendar and it certainly was a chance we headed straight for. This is a soft and gentle wine with some delicacy detected in this vintage. A supple tannin structure embraces dark black fruits and chocolate flavours. The tannins are beautifully ripe and dusty giving a softly gripping structure around some relaxed and textured fruit. There is a setting of class among the whole experience. Lovely stuff, even if not a opulently rich and expansive as some previous vintages. 97+/109