| 2008 Wines of the Year - Finalists |
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| Written by Kiwi Wine Fan Club | |
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2008 Kiwi Wine Fan Club - Champion Wine of the Year - The Year in Summary Tightening Cellars Surely in the midst of an increasingly difficult market there are concerns in the luxury goods industry. To shift wine of any description can be difficult, but none know this more than the many emerging new wineries with little reputation. They above all need to attract a higher price per bottle to cover overheads. We have heard a figure of $20 a bottle break even quoted by one such venture. The sapping need to make return on the enormous outlays required by a fledgling operation have and will break some.
Every Girls Fashion Accessory Past the doom and gloom, it seems wine has continued to become more and more a ‘victim’ of fashion. So what has fashion dictated this year? Firstly it is plain that Syrah is the new Pinot Noir, no matter how our signature red grape is championed. Syrah with all its texture, body and excitement is in, Cabernet Sauvignon is out. Is Craggy Le Sol more fashionable now than Stonyridge Larose? It probably is. Pinot Gris is in, Chardonnay is out. Nothing is new there. It is frightening though to see the share of space devoted to decidedly average Pinot Gris on the supermarket shelves. Riesling is out still and God knows why. Kiwi Wine Fan Club will stop ranting on about that one and just drink it all ourselves. Sauvignon Blanc is also getting a hard time outside the pub set. Many palates are just looking for a bit more. The whole wine experience among workmates, friends and relatives is becoming more sophisticated. Are people becoming more educated, or is it just that some of us are getting older? The saying “It’s not what we are drinking, its how we are drinking” should perhaps be replaced by “It’s not how we are drinking, its what we are drinking” The Awards
As per usual our rules of engagement for these awards are loose and ad hoc, but they usually demand wines have been released this year, or at least are still easily obtainable. Some may be wines of this genre; we simply have finally got around to tasting them. Prices quoted are approximate retail. All errors are on purpose. 2008 Kiwi Wine Fan Club - Champion Wine of the Year - The Finalists Chardonnay Our Australasian Chardonnay Challenge this year certainly established in our minds the monumental strength and value of New Zealand’s front rank chardonnay. Stating the obvious; so many chardonnays are annoyingly homogeneous, lacking flair, devoid of inspiration and as boring as watching yet another mindless episode of ‘Home and Away’. The best chardonnays demonstrate character, fleet footedness, detail, texture and concentration. Quite a number of people dismiss chardonnay based on limited experiences with strictly average examples. The below wines should convert even the most avid practitioners of ABC (Anything But Chardonnay). Chardonnay of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2006 Sacred Hill Riflemans Chardonnay. This wine is really pushing hard for recognition as Hawkes Bay’s top Chardonnay. It can’t be too far away from its goal. Riflemans is an exquisitely refined and deftly textured wine. Certainly it is a luxurious drink. $50 2007 Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay. This is our pick to buy at this stage from the Kumeu River new releases. This wine oozes sophistication, style and class flaunting magnificent fine citrus flavours. The breeding in this wine is apparent. Magnificent, mouthwatering citrus flavours overlay a fine chalky frame. $45 2007 Te Mata Elston Chardonnay. This tightly wound and shy wine shows a delicacy and precision of a top vintage. On special the value this regal label offers is hard to ignore. Often living in the shadow of Coleraine and Awatea, Elston in its own right demands our consideration. Previous vintages show that Elston is a true proven and delightful performer in the cellar too. $35 Honourable mentions: 2006 Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay, 2006 Church Road Reserve Chardonnay, 2007 Kumeu River Mates Vineyard Chardonnay, 2007 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc The brazen and zany flavours of a newly released Sauvignon Blanc, from a top producer, certainly paint a smile on the dial. It announces warmer weather, the promise of relaxed holiday weeks, outdoor food and entertainment. These are ‘wow’ wines at their best whether ‘in your face’ or more restrained in style. They are wines that sun lovers appreciate and understand. A few wine snobs seem to belittle the variety, as so often they are a bit simple and one dimensional. However it is difficult to ignore the best of these wines. Variety is the spice of life. Sauvignon Blanc is a people pleaser. It is great summer social occasion fare. Certainly 2008 is a more variable Sauvignon Blanc vintage than 2007, but the leading wines are certainly close to the heights set last year. Sauvignon Blanc of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2007 Te Mata Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc. (Hawkes Bay) One of the most sophisticated Sauvignon Blanc’s in New Zealand. It is complex, restrained and classy. There are shades of Bordeaux Blanc expressed on the palate. This is a chic wine for grown up white wine drinkers. $30 2008 St Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc. As usual the picture of restraint and elegance. This wine forgoes much of the flamboyance of classical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc while retaining the purity and icon flavours. There is a depth and textural element to this wine that augments it into something very special. $30 Honourable mentions: 2008 Craggy Range Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc Riesling Our love of Riesling never fades. These gorgeous wines all head to a more Spatlese style which is the spot where all of us believe New Zealand Riesling offers a bit extra, and attracts that x-factor. They are compelling wines full of grace and charm while still setting the palate off like a match in a fireworks factory. The many people who still maintain an immature bigotry against this variety simply need to wake up and smell the coffee. Some plainly do not enjoy sweetness in their wines. We do. It is one of our happy places; as such I’m sure a few of us here rate some wines in this style more generously than other critics. The best of these wines are, in our eyes, of stupendous quality. Kiwi Wine Fan Club has a generous number of featured wines for this section. In the end we just couldn’t drop any off, they are all so good. One comment though, these wines are getting a little steep in price in many cases. Has the last stronghold of the bargain disappeared? Riesling of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2007 Villa Maria Reserve Riesling. (Marlborough) As we have written many times, this wine seems to sit way too low below the radar of fine wine drinkers. It delivers class, subtlety, balance and detail every vintage. Not the easiest wine to find retail but usually available from the cellar door. $24 2007 Felton Road Riesling (Central Otago). This really is an arresting wine, well structured, expansive with explosive flavours among a restrained frame. It is just gorgeous and a complete head turner. It demonstrates such pure flavours and definitely this was a leading candidate for ‘Riesling of the Year’. $28
2007 Fromm La Strada Spatlese Riesling. (Marlborough) The 2005 version of this wine took out our ‘Wine of the Year’ award in 2006. The 2007 vintage is a shy, delicate and detailed wine which just grows and grows on you. It really is just a gorgeous drink not to be missed. Sit and consume this quietly and thoughtfully. On show are ravishing flavours of green apple and honeysuckle all wrapped in a silk like frame. $30 Honourable mentions: 2008 Mt Difficulty Target Gully Riesling, 2007 Pegasus Bay Dry Riesling, 2007 Villa Maria Taylors Pass Riesling, 2008 Villa Maria Fletcher Vineyard Riesling, 2007 Neudorf Moutere Riesling, 2007 Millton Opou Riesling, 2006 Fromm La Strada Auslese Riesling Pinot Gris Pinot Gris continues to ride the wave of popularity that it has surfed for a few years now. It is a popular variety which seems to polarise opinion. Many very good examples do exist but in general, in our opinion, they lack the precision, flavour, definition and detail required to create the full fine wine experience. There is no doubting, when presented with our winners, that these are outstanding wines that deserve a look this festive season. Pinot Gris of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2006 Mt Difficulty Mansons Farm Pinot Gris (Central Otago). We first bumped into this exquisite wine on our Central Otago trip earlier in the year. This is a drink that displays focus, detail and texture and is one of the few ‘wow’ Pinot Gris we have tried. It is perfectly Off Dry and ravishing. Unfortunately it is reasonably rare. Worth a try if you get the chance. Kate managed to try this at a recent tasting and was impressed with not just this wine but how Pinot Gris in this country is progressing. A real winner! $35 2007 Glasnevin Waipara Pinot Gris (Waipara). This sumptuous wine really tickles the taste buds. Ripe juicy pears with a touch of butteryness fill the mouth, offering well balanced flavour. It has a fabulous silky texture, a little residual sugar with an off-dry finish – but that’s the way we like it. There is plenty going on and much to ponder about, which calls for several more bottles to be sampled in the near future – too bad it’s in limited supply. $30 Gewürztraminer This is such an exotic and fragrant wine which constantly has to balance sweetness, alcohol, perfume and spiciness to create the perfect expression of textural opulence and luxury. It is a wine that, at worse, can go badly wrong. At its best it is a rich, perfumed and alluring drink. Try matching with rich pork and chicken dishes and also some Thai or Chinese dishes. It also seems to go well with Christmas fare such as crystal ginger, fruitcake and Christmas mince pies. Gewürztraminer of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2008 Pyramid Valley Orton Gewurztraminer (Hawkes Bay). This heads up originates from a winery definitely making waves as the next “Dry River” style cult winery. Sarah describes them as “making a huge impact on me, the industry etc”. Don’t get too attached to it though, apparently this first vintage is also their last. $40 Honourable mentions: 2008 Johanneshof Gewurztraminer, 2004 Vinoptima Gewurztraminer, and 2007 Lawsons Dry Hills Gewurztraminer Syrah It was the 1999 Matariki Syrah from the Hawkes Bay that led Craig to the revelation that Syrah could develop to be the “next big thing” in the Hawkes Bay. Not the first to espouse this opinion and certainly was not the last. It seemed to us that the depth, weight and texture exceed that of basically every wine sitting in the Hawkes Bay arsenal. There is a real strength demonstrated in the wines all of us have tried this year. We have seen a real development in the attention to detail, polish and poise exhibited by this variety. It seems almost all producers of note are slowly evolving away from the heavily extracted introductory vintages towards more refined and detailed wines. Although some notable bargains still exist, many of these wines are now becoming very expensive especially when comparing to Australian Shiraz of similar quality. However, it is a must for any New Zealand wine buff to experience a front rank example.
Other Finalists: 2006 Trinity Hill Homage Syrah (Hawkes Bay). What it is about $100+ bottles of wine that causes us to sigh? Maybe it’s simply because we are just not rich enough to buy them by the case! It is possible to argue Homage offers poor value for money, but you can’t ignore the fact that this wine is simply brilliant. It offers fantastic floral aromas, endless detail and the sexiest texture you could imagine. We have been slow off the mark to taste and endorse this wine, but better late than never! Craig even bought one. $120 2006 Bilancia La Collina Syrah (Hawkes Bay). La Collina is a captivating and ethereal wine. It is dark, haunting, multi faceted and exciting. You really get the sense of “the next step up” when tasting it. It is expensive as is the norm now with top Hawkes Bay Syrah, but it sure delivers. Perhaps this is the dark horse of kiwi Syrah, definitely it is one of our best labels. $85
2006 John Forrest Collection Syrah (Hawkes Bay). This is a beautifully refined and graceful wine of precision, balance and poise. There is nothing showy about it, instead its subtlety and meticulousness seduces you and draws you in. It really impressed us at Wine NZ $70 2006 Villa Maria Reserve Syrah (Hawkes Bay). So softly textured, and ever changing in the glass. It displays perfect ripeness and poise. It is gently aromatic, peppery and rich, displaying opulence seldom seen in New Zealand Syrah. It is a definite ‘drink slow’ wine. $65 Honourable mentions: 2006 Unison Syrah, 2006 Craggy Range Block 14 Syrah, 2005 Cottage Block Syrah, 2006 Unison Selection, 2005 Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah Bordeaux Red Varieties and Blends Top Bordeaux varieties seemed a little thinner on the ground this year. Are we starting to see the decline of this style of wine in New Zealand? At their best though, these wines are stirring with fantastic harmony. Some of us are buying more of this style of wine than any other from New Zealand, with the possible exception of Riesling. It is a style that really excites. There are so many dimensions, so many facets, and so much complexity on offer within a glass of top Bordeaux styled red wine. Blends seem to offer the greatest promise Bordeaux Blend of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2006 Te Mata Coleraine (Hawkes Bay). This is the third top rank vintage in a row for the iconic Coleraine. A fact which must be pleasing to the winery especially considering the 2007 and 2008 are also looking promising. 2006 Coleraine is a tight dark and brooding wine of polish and poise. It is a wine which seems to have lost popularity in some quarters, but is a label which lives as strongly as ever with us. It is compulsory for any serious NZ cellar. We have never experienced any vintage of this wine that does not improve markedly after a few years rest. $75 2004 Puriri Hills Reserve (Clevedon). With a double vintage release last year, nothing new has been released from this fairy tale winery this year aside from a Rose. The vintage dressed as latest release though is the 2004. This gorgeously elegant and complex wine simply has bottomless interest and is a must try for lovers of wine that major in subtlety over flamboyance. The ground floor elevator has left the lobby for this winery; prices are moving upward and I think they will continue to. Shop around for the remaining few available at a good price. $70 2006 Benfield & Delamare (Martinborough). This miniscule producer of wine hailing from Martinborough always gets a nod of recognition when mentioned to those in the know. Whilst known for being a consistent producer, for Kate it is the first vintage she has really taken notice of. It displays classic herbal tones encapsulated in waves of musk, talc and fruit spice all wrapped in a satin sheet like texture. It is smooth, elegant and all class and one of the cheaper examples out there. $55 Honourable mentions: 2006 Newton Forrest Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 Church Road Reserve Cabernet Merlot, 2006 Mills Reef Trust Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 John Forrest Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 & 2006 Esk Valley Reserve Merlot/Malbec/ Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 St Nesbit, 2006 Stonyridge Larose. Pinot Noir Pinot Noir is such a frustrating variety, but when it comes together as intended there is basically nothing that seduces the palate to such an extent. It is our firm belief that the benefit of cellaring a top NZ pinot for even 2-3 years is profound. The puppy fat disappears, detail and definition emerge, and the oak melds into the background. You are then cooking with gas. Some of us admit though that we are hard to please when it comes to Pinot Noir. Many wines with many accolades have failed to excite. The trend for wineries to produce a limited ‘super cuvee’ Pinot Noir seems to have snow balled this year. It seems there are plenty of people willing to pay $90-150 for something exclusive. Unfortunately we can’t afford to taste them all and only get the odd chance to try them. Our Pinot Noir selection reflects this no doubt. Pinot Noir of the Year:
Other Finalists: 2007 Gibbston Valley Maitre Pinot Noir (Central Otago). . This limited wine from the ‘expressionist series’ is an astonishingly complex wine, multifaceted, softly textured and beguiling. Complexity is this wines draw card, offering an array of flavours. It is an exceptionally polished effort. It is a rare wine available ex winery. $75 2007 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough). Kate has phoned this one in as every bit as good as the 2006 version. Displaying classic Pinot Noir characteristics Ata Rangi has managed to deliver 3 consecutive top vintages, solidifying them as one of Martinborough’s top producers of this varietal. The texture is always unbelievably smooth in these wines and the latest release still delivers the perfect mix of sweet, savoury and a touch of pungency to keep all parties happy. Given that it is one of the ‘meatier’ releases it could do with more time in the bottle but those that are impatient should serve up with a large chunk of lamb or venison and be extremely rewarded. $70 2006 Amisfield Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir (Central Otago). I didn’t want to like this wine. Its presumptuous price tag was an offence, but upon tasting it I have to admit it is a super sexy and opulent Pinot Noir that seduces the senses. It is very ripe and perhaps not as classical as most Pinot Noir we fall for, but there is something about this it that screams luxury aside from its price. $105 2006 Dry River Pinot Noir. (Martinborough) This iconic maker's Pinot Noir although exclusive can be sought out in retail, though expect to pay for the privilege. It is deep, dark, and brooding with masses of velvety black cherry and soft spice. It seems to be the best release seen in years. It is a luxury item which pushed us for top spot. $110 Sparkling Wine New Zealand fizz can often display a bit of heaviness and coarseness. The best Sparkling wines are agile and fleet footed with finely boned and ripe acids. They should also demonstrate very fine bubbles or ‘bead’ and what I describe as an airy marshmallow or mousse-like texture. Over the years we have started to see more players in this area, and given that the climate is conducive to the production of sparkling wine, we should continue to see improvement in the upcoming years. The wines however, will continue to have that ‘kiwi’ twist with a touch more fruit showing, not typically seen in French examples which may never be appealing to true lovers of Champagne.
Other Finalists: 2005 Deutz Marlborough Blanc De Blancs (Marlborough). Blanc de Blancs oozes class in Kate’s opinion and is a style we are really enjoying at the moment. Kate has seen some great examples out of both New Zealand and Tasmania over the past year and has found this to be a fabulous wine. With a delicate nose of toasted bread and delicate bubbles tickling the palate with preserved lemons, vanilla and a touch of yeast it strikes a good balance between interesting and subtle. It is suitable through an entire meal from aperitif to dessert. $35 Honourable mentions: Le Brun Family No 1, 2003 Quartz Reef Chauvet Sweet Dessert Styled Wine We have to admit the best sweet wines tried this year are the ones we awarded top spots to last year! Craig was starting to think it was a glaring hole in tasting for the year! Thankfully Kate has come to the rescue fresh from a comparative tasting of some of New Zealand’s most exciting sweet wine labels. This year the decision has been made not to declare a winner in this category. Whilst there are some good wines out there, they are not hitting our wow factor buttons in comparison to previous releases and certainly not when assessing dollar value. When we start getting to the $50 mark for a half bottle we begin to enter First Growth Sauternes territory and we know where the smart will be putting that kind of money. When previous preferred vintages of some our favourite stickies are still available it seems almost practical to drink those and wait for next year. There is also strong competition from across the ditch both on mainland Australia as well as Tasmania where there are now lighter styles and more affordable examples in this category. Finalists: 2004 Vinoptima Gewurztraminer Noble Late Harvest (Gisborne). Gewurztraminer and hedonistic are two words often seen in the same sentence and it’s no different in the case of this wine. While not 100% true to the typical Turkish delight and jasmine notes one would expect it still expresses Gewurztraminer characteristics and attributes. Though full bodied and packed with heady florals, spice and sticky honey, there is still a cleanliness and freshness to this wine due to well balanced acidity. $59
2006 Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling (Marlborough). Year after year we see the Villa Maria Noble Rieslings carrying favour with our team. What would summer be without an annual pilgrimage to the super handy Auckland cellar door to try the latest release? Again we see a sweeter heavier wine on offer. Thoughts of mandarin and vanilla marmalade spring to mind though there is a touch of crème brulee coming through. Drink now & enjoy. $40 2008 Kiwi Wine Fan Club - Champion Wine of the Year All finalists were considered for our 9th annual accolade, to take the baton from the now cult 2007 winner; 2005 Puriri Hills 'Pope'. This Year's Overall Champion: 2008 = 2007 Passage Rock Reserve Syrah (Waiheke Island) Click Here for our detailed write up. Our Previous Years Winners are: 2000 = 1998 Te Mata "Awatea" Cabernet Merlot (Hawkes Bay) |
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| Last Updated ( Thursday, 08 January 2009 ) |
You also have to wonder about the demand side of the equation. The feeling is that it is a little easier to get hold of trendy labels at the moment (which has its advantages as a buyer). Demand is obviously softening. We have never, for example, seen multi case displays of Dry River stacked on the floor of a wine shop before. This year it has been seen. It will be astute relationship builders that survive this downturn, those who command loyalty through their quality and commitment to customers. Retailers are struggling too.
Our list this year seems to reflect a typical pattern. A good swag of predictable picks among a few exciting bolters and surprises. After last years Puriri Hills revelation, we were keen to give some new wineries a good go. In reality however, it is hard work to find wines that beyond doubt, under our toughest examination, match up to our tried and true favourites. 
2007 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay. The 2007 vintage is unusually approachable young. It is simply a ‘must have’ chardonnay. Every time we open a bottle of this label it is rammed home loud and clear why this label is so revered, and also why we regularly buy it in quantity. It is, we truly believe, one of the greatest chardonnay labels in the Southern Hemisphere. As we have said, it is approachable already and irresistible drinking. Share only if you have to. $65
2008 Astrolabe Awatere Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Introducing a wine that is zany, fresh, loud and razor focussed. The detail is as brilliant, the flavours ultra pungent and colourful. A perfect level of ripeness allows stunning purity and fruit expression. This is simply Marlborough at its absolute zenith. $25
2007 Gibbston Valley Le Fou Riesling. (Central Otago) This is our New Zealand discovery of the year; one of our ‘wow’ wine moments. It is drop dead gorgeous Spatlese styled Central Otago Riesling It is simply compulsory drinking for lovers of this style of wine. Sit and sip this wine slowly and let it play you a symphony. We are head over heals in love. Dave in fact may take them all hostage for himself. It is available ex-winery only. Gather a couple of friends together and split the cost of a six pack. $35
2007 Peregrine Charcoal Creek Riesling. (Central Otago) This is another Riesling which seems off the map a little. It is small production wine with a ravishing talcy texture, icing sugar sweetness and plenty of x-factor. Obviously this is another unsung Central Otago potential great for lovers of sweeter styled Riesling. Serve chilled as an aperitif. $35
2007 Dry River Pinot Gris (Martinborough). This wine is simply a revelation. It is easy to see why this label has such a reputation. Its deft balance and texture is magnificent. It has substance, weight and presence. It is a truly great wine which is, again, unfortunately difficult to obtain if you are not on the Mail Order list. $55
2008 Dry River Lovat Gewurztraminer (Martinborough). Kate describes this as “definitely a contender” and “is all smooth – no rough edges, its like one of those smooth marble balls.” You would have to guess that’s a unique way of describing seamless! This is an ageless classic that delivers year after year. Drinking this current release conjures up images of a Turkish bathhouse or lying on a humid beach on a spice island somewhere in the Indian Ocean. It is the perfect aperitif in our books. $55
2007 Passage Rock Reserve Syrah (Waiheke Island). There is such detail and design in this wine. It is restrained, complex and intellectual. The flavours are red fruited laced with lashings of fine white pepper. It certainly is gorgeous. We were even more taken by it than the rather modest winemaker. Once more this label very much impressed all of the four writers that tasted it especially Mark. It is just a little different from the Hawkes Bay wines in style; very poised, elegant and balanced. Once more the price is on the acceptable side of crazy, especially considering it falls from the pricey region of Waiheke Island. $50
2006 Esk Valley Reserve Syrah (Hawkes Bay). This is a concentrated, textured and chocolaty wine. A smidge of Australia is peeking through in terms of body and style. It is very generous, dark and voluptuous. Impressive. This is one of Melanie’s favourite wines this year. She says she is biased as an Esk Valley fan, but we all know it isn’t a bad winery to frequent. $60
2006 Craggy Range Sophia (Hawkes Bay). This is a wine which upon initial tasting Craig was a little disappointed in. However subsequent tastings underlined the fact that one impression is never enough when it comes to wine. This is such a confident wine, so easily classy and so easily a step up on nearly everything it competes with. It is dark fruited, fragrant, textural and precise. This is another wine I fear is due to jump in price. Get some while you can. $55
2007 Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This is a totally different style to the Amisfield (below). It is gorgeously refined and elegant, shy and reserved but exacting in its execution and poise. It is fine wine in every sense. Once more the price isn’t as frightening as many flagship Pinot Noir. $55
2001 Daniel Le Brun Vintage Brut (Marlborough). This gorgeous sparkling wine rates as one of the best I have tried from New Zealand. It has shades of Champagne in its genes with its refined complexity and generous sophistication. It is a striking celebration starter. $35
2005 John Forrest Collection Noble Riesling (Marlborough). This was last year’s winner in this category and the latest release shows that the sweet wines in this stable are here to stay. This is an intense wine and for those that like their dessert wines thick and super sweet this would be a pick for you. There is a fantastic icing sugar texture to this wine and gorgeous restraint. A classic $50| < Prev | Next > |
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